{"id":21439,"date":"2026-04-03T06:39:05","date_gmt":"2026-04-03T06:39:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/supstratimaki.com\/?p=21439"},"modified":"2026-04-03T06:39:15","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T06:39:15","slug":"how-to-choose-the-right-substrate-for-houseplants","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/supstratimaki.com\/en\/blog\/kako-izabrati-pravi-supstrat-za-sobne-biljke\/","title":{"rendered":"How to choose the right potting mix for houseplants?"},"content":{"rendered":"

You buy a Monstera from a florist, bring it home, and place it on a chest of drawers by the window. For the first week or two, it looks phenomenal. Then, slowly, the leaves start to lose their colour, the tips turn yellow. Perhaps that strange white coating appears on the soil. You think you've done something wrong with the watering, you move the pot to another spot, you try watering less, then more, and nothing helps. Sound familiar?<\/p>\n

And the problem was beneath the surface the entire time. In the substrate.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Most of us, when we hear the word \"substrate,\" think of soil and that's it. But a substrate for houseplants isn't ordinary garden soil. It's a mix that needs to do several jobs simultaneously, and when it does them properly, plants thrive almost on their own. And when it doesn't, no amount of watering or fertilising tricks will help.<\/p>\n

\"Potting<\/p>\n

This text is for all those who have just started with houseplants and want to understand what the soil in their pot actually is, how to choose the right one, and why it is perhaps the most important decision they make for the health of their plants.<\/p>\n

What does the substrate actually do?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

When you plant a plant in a pot, its roots depend exclusively on what is in that pot. There is no room for it to spread its roots in search of water and food as plants do in nature. Everything it needs must be provided there, in those few litres of substrate.<\/p>\n

And there we come to three things that the substrate must perform.<\/p>\n

The first one moisture retention<\/strong> The substrate should absorb water when you water the plant and slowly release it to the roots between waterings. If the water doesn't retain at all, the roots remain dry and the plant suffers.<\/p>\n

The second is Overflow of excess water<\/strong> This sounds like the opposite of the first job, but it isn't. The substrate must not hold water like a puddle. Excess must drain through the bottom of the pot, otherwise the root sits in water and begins to rot. This is one of the most common reasons why bud grows on the earth in a pot<\/a>, And from there, the problems just kept getting bigger.<\/p>\n

And the third thing, which is talked about the least, is air<\/strong> Roots need oxygen to function. When the substrate is too compacted and dense, air cannot pass through and the root literally suffocates. Therefore, the substrate must be loose enough for both water and air to pass through it.<\/p>\n

It is good to remember that the substrate and drainage layer at the bottom of the pot<\/a> They work together. One is not much good without the other.<\/p>\n

What is the substrate made of?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

When you open a bag of substrate, it's not just one material inside. It's always a mixture, and each component has its role. You don't need to know chemical formulas, but it's useful to understand the basics because then it will be much easier for you to judge whether something is good for your plant or not.<\/p>\n

Reset<\/strong> is the basis of most substrates. It is light, loose, and retains moisture excellently. There is light peat which is airier and lighter, and dark peat which is more compact and holds more water. In quality substrates, both are combined to achieve the right balance. Peat is slightly acidic, which suits most houseplants, but if you are interested in how The pH value affects plant growth<\/a>, we wrote about that in more detail.<\/p>\n

Perlite<\/strong> These are tiny granules you'll likely notice when looking at the substrate. They are created from volcanic glass that is heated to high temperatures and swells like popcorn. It doesn't hold much water on its own, but it creates small air pockets in the substrate, allowing excess water to drain more easily. Whenever someone says \u201eadd perlite to the soil,\u201c the reason is always the same: to make the substrate breathe better. Agro Perlite<\/a> Fractions of 3 to 6 millimetres are ideal for this purpose and we mix it with almost all substrates.<\/p>\n

Coconut fibre<\/strong> Its alternative to tre\u0161ete, which has been used more and more in recent years. They are obtained from coconut shells, they are more environmentally friendly and do an excellent job: they retain moisture while remaining breathable.<\/p>\n

Vermiculite<\/strong> It resembles perlite but feels different. It absorbs water and releases it gradually, so it's good for plants that need more consistent moisture around their roots.<\/p>\n

Sand<\/strong> It improves drainage and makes the substrate heavier. It is mostly used for cacti and succulents that do not tolerate excess water.<\/p>\n

Tree bark<\/strong> It is mainly used for orchids and epiphytic plants. It creates large spaces through which air passes freely, which is essential for these plants as their roots do not grow in soil in nature.<\/p>\n

Universal or specialised substrate?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

This is a question that confuses most beginners. In the shop, you see a dozen types of substrate and don't know which one to choose.<\/p>\n

To start with, a good all-purpose compost is perfectly adequate for most green houseplants. Monsteras, ficuses, philodendrons, pothos, dracaenas, scheffleras \u2013 all these plants will do fine in it. A quality all-purpose compost such as Maki Plus<\/a> It's a mix of light and black peat with added fertiliser and a pH level suitable for a wide range of plants. It's a reliable base you can rely on when you're not sure what exactly is needed.<\/p>\n

Some plants do not suit universal compost, and that's where specialised substrates come in.<\/p>\n

Orchids are the best example. In nature, they grow on tree branches, not in the soil. Their roots need to breathe and have space, so they require a completely different substrate, usually bark-based. Orchid substrate<\/a> It\u2019s formulated precisely for that: it\u2019s loose, it allows air through, and it retains just the right amount of moisture. If you plant an orchid in universal potting mix, there\u2019s a high chance its roots will rot.<\/p>\n

Cacti and succulents are at the other end of the spectrum. They need a substrate that dries quickly because in nature they live in arid conditions with poor soil. Cactus compost<\/a> contains more sand and perlite and retains much less water than universal.<\/p>\n

The rule is essentially simple: for most green houseplants, use a universal fertiliser, for orchids and cacti, get a specialised one. And if you're unsure what the packet says and how to assess the quality, check out our article on the subject. How to read labels on substrates<\/a>, We've written everything out nicely there.<\/p>\n

Also, if you're interested in how much substrate you actually need for a particular pot and plant, we've written about that in the article too. how much substrate each plant needs<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Practical houseplant mixes<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Sometimes you'll want to adapt the substrate for a specific plant, especially if you feel a universal one isn't airy enough or retains too much water on its own. This is easier than it sounds.<\/p>\n

For most green houseplants like Monstera, Ficus, Philodendrons and similar, take three parts universal potting mix and mix with one part perlite. This is sufficient correction to open up the substrate a bit, allowing better water and air drainage, while still retaining enough moisture and nutrients. For measurements, you can use ordinary cups; there's no need to weigh it to the gram.<\/p>\n

For succulents and cacti, the mix is different. There, sand and perlite need to make up a good portion of the total mix, even half or more. One part universal substrate, one part coarse sand, and one part perlite is a combination that suits them. Everything is geared towards preventing water from lingering. But honestly, for these plants it's worth taking ready-made cactus substrate<\/a> because it's already formulated with the right ratio of components and you won't have to mess with mixing.<\/p>\n

For orchids, don't improvise. Simply use Specialised orchid substrate<\/a> which is bark-based and already has the right looseness and pH. Orchids are too specific to experiment with, especially if you're a beginner. If you're interested in the process of repotting orchids itself, we have a detailed guide on how how to repot orchids<\/a>.<\/p>\n

As for Preparing the soil for planting<\/a> Generally, whether you're mixing your own or using a finished substrate, it's good practice to lightly moisten the substrate before planting. Dry substrate, especially peat-based ones, absorbs water poorly when completely dry and can cause water to simply run down the sides of the pot without being absorbed.<\/p>\n

Errors to watch out for<\/strong><\/h3>\n

We have written extensively about the most common mistakes when buying substrate in special text<\/a> It's worth reading if you have time. But here are a few things that are specific to houseplants and that we see again and again.<\/p>\n

The first and most common is taking soil from the garden and putting it in a pot. Garden soil is too heavy, it compacts, it doesn't have a structure that suits the confined space of a pot, and it often carries pests or diseases that explode in an indoor environment. Houseplants should be planted exclusively in a potting substrate.<\/p>\n

The second mistake is leaving the plant in the same substrate for years. The substrate decomposes over time, loses aeration, becomes more compact, and becomes poorer in nutrients. Many people think that fertilising is a sufficient replacement for fresh substrate, but it is not. Fertiliser feeds the plant, but it does not fix the physical structure of the deteriorated substrate.<\/p>\n

And third, transplanting into an oversized pot. It seems logical that a bigger pot means more space and is better for the plant. But in practice, when the roots occupy a small part of the pot, all that excess soil retains moisture that no one uses. The soil stays wet for too long, the roots suffocate, and problems arise.<\/p>\n

How to recognise when your substrate needs changing<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Substrate does not last forever. After a year or two, sometimes sooner, its structure changes and it no longer does what it's supposed to.<\/p>\n

The clearest sign is the behaviour of the water when watering. If the water passes through the pot in a couple of seconds and appears in the saucer almost immediately, it means the substrate has compacted and dried out so much that it no longer absorbs anything. The water passes through cracks between the substrate and the walls of the pot, and the root remains dry. The opposite situation is also bad; if the water stands on the surface for a long time and is absorbed slowly, the substrate has likely compacted too much and there is no longer enough space for air.<\/p>\n

Crystalline deposits on the surface of the substrate are accumulated mineral salts from water and fertiliser. A small amount is normal, but when there are too many, it means the substrate is overloaded and needs replacing.<\/p>\n

And finally, if you notice that the substrate has visibly separated from the edges of the pot and created a gap, that's a sign that the structure has completely broken down.<\/p>\n

Generally, every one to two years, the substrate should be considered for replacement, which most often coincides with repotting plants<\/a>. Don't wait for the plant to start showing problems because by then the substrate should have been replaced a long time ago.<\/p>\n

After all, a healthy substrate means a healthy root. And a healthy root means a plant that can carry out all those processes on which its growth depends, including photosynthesis<\/a> which gives her the energy for life.<\/p>\n

Let's wrap this up and not mess it up again.<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Don't complicate what doesn't need to be complicated. To start, you need a quality universal substrate such as Maki Plus<\/a> I am\"} Perlite for Agriculture<\/a> For mixing. For orchids and cacti, use specialised substrates as universal ones won't do the job. Provide a pot with holes and a drainage layer and change the substrate regularly.<\/p>\n

That's enough for your plants to be healthy and happy. Everything else comes with experience!<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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