{"id":21596,"date":"2026-06-29T08:48:14","date_gmt":"2026-06-29T08:48:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/supstratimaki.com\/?p=21596"},"modified":"2026-06-29T08:48:33","modified_gmt":"2026-06-29T08:48:33","slug":"ficus-varieties-and-what-to-do-when-leaves-fall","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/supstratimaki.com\/en\/blog\/fikus-nega-vrste-i-sta-raditi-kad-opada-lisce\/","title":{"rendered":"Fig trees: Care, types, and what to do when leaves fall?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ficus (lat. Fig<\/em>) belongs to the mulberry family and is a botanical relative of the common fig. The genus has over 800 species.<\/strong>, but when someone in Serbia says they have a ficus, they mean one of the four or five species grown as houseplants. Everything else is exotic for collectors.<\/p>\n

This plant has been present here since the post-war period. Generations grew up with a ficus in the living room, next to the television, between the windows and the radiator. Even today, despite all the new plants that have flooded Instagram, the ficus has remained synonymous with a houseplant. The reason is simple: it looks good, it lives for a long time (up to 20 years in a pot) and it forgives mistakes that would cost most tropical plants their lives.<\/p>\n

What many don't know is that ficus species differ drastically in appearance, size, and requirements. The rubber ficus with its thick, leathery leaves and the small-leaved benjamina have almost nothing in common except their Latin name. Therefore, it makes no sense to say a ficus likes light without specifying which ficus we're talking about.<\/p>\n

\"Fiddle-leaf<\/p>\n

4 ficus plants you'll most commonly find in shops<\/h2>\n

Rubber plant (Ficus elastica): for those who want a large plant without the fuss<\/h3>\n

If you are a beginner and want something that looks impressive but won't penalise you for every little thing, the India Rubber Plant is the right choice. Thick, shiny, leathery dark green leaves, an upright stem, minimal care needed.<\/p>\n

In florists, you will encounter several varieties: Robusta<\/strong> it has classic dark green leaves, Tineke<\/strong> is streaked with white and pink, Burgundy<\/strong> The leaves are so dark they appear almost black. All are grown identically; only the variegated ones need a little more light to retain their colour.<\/p>\n

In a pot, rubber plants grow to 2 metres, sometimes more. In the wild, in India and Indonesia, it's a 30-metre tree whose latex was once used to produce rubber. Hence the common name \u201erubber fig\u201c.<\/p>\n

Weeping fig: a classic Serbian ficus with character<\/h3>\n

Benjamin is that ficus that stood at Grandma's in the corner of the room, with small shiny leaves and thin branches that bend gently. It can grow up to 3 metres and look like a small tree in the living room.<\/p>\n

Ali Benjamin also has a reputation for being difficult. The moment you move him, he starts dropping leaves. The light changes, he drops leaves. You open the window when it's cold, the same thing again. It sounds dramatic, but it's actually just his way of saying \u201esomething has changed and I don't like it\u201c. Once he gets used to his new spot, in 3 to 4 weeks he stops and starts again. The trick is to position him once and don't touch him.<\/p>\n

There are green and colourful varieties (Starlight, Golden King), and some are sold with a braided trunk, which is purely an aesthetic form.<\/p>\n

Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata): a plant that has become a status symbol for interiors<\/h3>\n

If you've seen it on Pinterest or in Scandinavian-style apartments, that's the lyrata. Large violin-shaped leaves, a dramatic look, and a slender but tall growth. In recent years, it has exploded in popularity here too.<\/p>\n

Of all the ficuses, lyrata is the most demanding. It does not tolerate being moved, draughts, dry winter radiators, or inconsistent watering. Its large leaves quickly collect dust, so they should be regularly wiped with a damp cloth. In return, when it is happy, it transforms the character of the entire room.<\/p>\n

Ginseng Ficus (Ficus Bonsai): A Compact Desk Ornament<\/h3>\n

This is a Ficus microcarpa shaped into a bonsai form, with a characteristic thickened root that looks like it's growing out of the ground like a miniature tree. It is sold under the name \u201eginseng\u201c because the root resembles ginseng root.<\/p>\n

Unlike other ficuses that grow upwards, ginseng remains compact and fits perfectly on a desk, shelf or chest of drawers. The care is similar to other ficuses, just be mindful that its pot is shallow (as they usually come) and don't overwater it, as a smaller volume of soil means faster water saturation.<\/p>\n

Light, temperature and position: that's where 90% of the success actually lies.<\/h2>\n

The biggest mistake people make with ficus trees isn't improper watering, but the wrong position. Then, when it starts to decline, they look for a solution in fertiliser or repotting, and the problem was there from the start: too little light or too little stability.<\/p>\n

Every fig tree loves bright, indirect light, but how much they tolerate deviations varies.<\/p>\n

Elastika<\/strong> It is the most flexible. It tolerates poorly lit corners, though it grows slower there and its leaves become darker. Variegated varieties (Tineke, Ruby) lose their variegation in less light and revert to green.<\/p>\n

Benjamin<\/strong> It seeks a brighter position, ideally a metre from a south or west-facing window. But what is more important to it than the amount of light is that this amount doesn't change abruptly. Once it gets used to it, leave it be.<\/p>\n

Lyrata<\/strong> It is the most demanding. It requires bright, but filtered light throughout the day. A south-facing window with a thin curtain, or an east-facing window where it gets the morning sun. It reacts quickly to too little light: yellow leaves, stunted growth, dropping.<\/p>\n

The temperature is similar for all ficuses: they are happy between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius, and start to suffer below 10. In winter, keep them away from radiators (which dry out the air) and also from windows that you open for ventilation (cold drafts). The ideal spot in winter is a room that isn't heated too much, but where the temperature doesn't drop below 12-13 degrees Celsius.<\/p>\n

By the way, you may have read somewhere that \u201ea ficus consumes oxygen at night, so it shouldn't be kept in the bedroom.\u201c This is a myth. All plants consume oxygen at night through respiration, but the amount is so small that it has no impact on the air in the room. You can keep a ficus wherever you like.<\/p>\n

Watering a ficus: how to tell if you're overwatering or underwatering it?<\/h2>\n

Ficus dislikes wet feet. This is rule number one and applies to all species. Overwatering is a much more frequent killer of ficus than drought, because in overly wet soil the root begins to rot, and this is only visible from the outside when the damage is already serious.<\/p>\n

Before you water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If it's dry at a depth of 3 to 4 centimetres, water it. If it's still damp, wait. In summer, this means roughly once a week, in winter once every 10 to 15 days, but don't stick to a schedule as if it were law. Check.<\/p>\n

When watering, water thoroughly. The water should pass through the entire pot and drain out through the drainage holes at the bottom. After half an hour, empty any excess water from the saucer. Never leave the pot standing in water.<\/p>\n

How to identify what the problem is? Too much water: leaves turn yellow, become soft and fall off along with the stem, and the soil on the surface is constantly moist. Too little water: leaves dry out at the edges, become brittle and break easily, and the soil separates from the edge of the pot because it has dried out completely. The symptoms are similar, but the leaf texture always reveals what the issue is.<\/p>\n

All fig plants appreciate humid air, especially in winter when central heating dries out the room. Mist the leaves with a spray bottle once or twice a week, or place the pot on a tray filled with damp gravel. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth once a month, besides helping with humidity, removes dust and allows the leaves to photosynthesise better.<\/p>\n

\"Fig<\/p>\n

Ficus soil: why is ordinary garden soil the worst choice?<\/h2>\n

A distinction is made here between a ficus that merely survives and one that truly thrives. Garden soil or soil from a field is too heavy for a pot. It compacts quickly, doesn't allow enough air to reach the roots, and retains too much moisture. Under such conditions, the roots cannot breathe, which is a direct path to rot.<\/p>\n

The fig tree needs a substrate that retains moisture but simultaneously allows excess water to drain. A mixture that has proven best in practice is:<\/p>\n

3 units of universal substrate<\/strong> (based on the card game, such as Substrate Maki Plus<\/a>) + 1 chapter<\/strong> Perlite for Agriculture<\/strong><\/a> (3 to 6 mm fractions, for aeration and drainage) + optional half portion Glisten<\/a> for a balanced, natural diet.<\/p>\n

Perlite are those little white granules you probably notice in quality potting mixes. They are formed from volcanic glass heated to high temperatures and create tiny air pockets in the soil. This is crucial for ficuses because their roots need oxygen as much as they need water.<\/p>\n

For measurements, use ordinary cups, you don't need to weigh it to the gram. Mix in a bucket or basin before pouring into the pot. If you are interested in a more detailed explanation of what makes a good substrate and how to read the labels on packaging, see our A guide to choosing indoor plant substrate<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Repotting, feeding and how fast a ficus actually grows:<\/h2>\n

Ficus dislikes frequent moves, whether from room to room or pot to pot. Repot only when it becomes cramped, which you'll recognise when the roots start to emerge from the drainage holes or when water passes straight through the pot immediately upon watering without being retained.<\/p>\n

The new pot should only be 2 to 4 centimetres larger in diameter than the previous one. Repotting into an oversized pot is a common mistake: excess soil around the roots stays damp for too long, leading to rot. If you're unsure how to estimate the right size, we've written a dedicated article about it. how much substrate each plant needs<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The best time to repot is early spring, before the ficus enters its active growth phase. Be sure to add a drainage layer of 2 to 3 centimetres at the bottom of the pot (coarser perlite, expanded clay, or pieces of polystyrene). You can see the entire step-by-step procedure in our Transplant guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Feed your green indoor plants with liquid fertiliser from April to September, once every two weeks. Stop completely in winter as the plant is dormant and cannot absorb nutrients. Fertilising during dormancy only burdens the soil with unnecessary salts.<\/p>\n

When it comes to growth, healthy fig trees grow quite quickly. Elastica can add 30 to 60 centimetres a year when conditions are favourable. Benjamin is slower, but steadily builds its canopy. Lyrata grows in waves: for months it won\u2019t move anything, then suddenly it will sprout three new leaves.<\/p>\n

Pruning and branching: how to create a lush canopy from a thin rod?<\/h2>\n

This is a topic most guides skip, and it's precisely here that the secret to a beautiful Ficus lies. Without pruning, the elastic (Ficus Elastica) grows like a single upright stem without side branches. The Benjamin fig branches itself, but not always evenly. The Lyra fig often grows into a tall \u201estick\u201c with a rosette of leaves on top.<\/p>\n

Pruning stimulates the lateral buds to awaken and start growing. The principle is simple: when you cut off the top, the plant redirects energy to the lateral buds that were dormant until then.<\/p>\n

In practice, it looks like this: in spring, when the plant starts new growth, trim the tip of the stem or branch to the desired height with sharp and clean secateurs. Cut just above a leaf or bud, at a slight angle. A milky white sap (latex) will appear at the cut site. This is completely normal. Wipe it off with a damp cloth or let it dry on its own. Wear gloves as the latex can irritate the skin.<\/p>\n

In the next few weeks, one or two new shoots will appear below the cut. With rubber plants, it sometimes needs repeating a couple of times over the years to form a nice, branched crown. For a Benjamin ficus, a single spring pruning is usually enough to maintain its shape.<\/p>\n

An infrequently heard piece of advice: if a rubber plant has only one main stem and you want a bushier appearance, prune lower than you think you should. Buds activate below the cut, so it's better to cut at a third of the stem's height and get two or three new shoots that will give the plant width, rather than just cutting the top and getting one extra branch.<\/p>\n

Ficus propagation by cuttings: the simplest way<\/h2>\n

Propagating ficus is simpler than it sounds, and the spring pruning you were planning anyway is the perfect opportunity to give it a go.<\/p>\n

Cut off the top of a branch 10 to 15 centimetres long, with at least two to three leaves. Remove the lower leaves, leaving only the top two. At the elastic band, the leaves can be folded in half and wrapped with a rubber band to reduce evaporation.<\/p>\n

You can put cuttings in a glass of water (change the water every 2 to 3 days) or directly into a moist substrate with plenty of perlite. In a warm place (around 22 to 25 degrees Celsius), roots should appear in 3 to 6 weeks.<\/p>\n

One thing that needs clarification because it's constantly repeated on forums: the story about \u201epropagating a Ficus from a leaf.\u201c Technically, if you put just a leaf in water, it can grow roots. But that leaf will never produce a new plant because it doesn't have a growth point on the stem. It will get roots, survive for a while, but it won't grow a new stem with new leaves. For successful propagation, there must be a piece of stem with a bud.<\/p>\n

For older and thicker specimens of rubber plant, a great method is air layering: a cut is made on the stem, wrapped in damp moss and foil, and left to form roots on the stem itself before being cut off.<\/p>\n

When a ficus is failing? Quick diagnosis by symptoms\u2026<\/h2>\n

Leaf fall<\/h3>\n

The most common concern for ficus owners, but at the same time the most normal occurrence. If you've just brought a ficus home or moved it to another room, leaf drop is a reaction to stress. Don't repot it, don't fertilise it, don't water it more than usual. Wait 3 to 4 weeks for it to acclimatise.<\/p>\n

If leaves are falling off without any obvious change, check: if it is near a radiator, if there is a draft from the window, if you have perhaps changed the watering regime. For a Ficus benjamina, seasonal leaf drop in autumn, as the days shorten, is quite normal and does not require intervention.<\/p>\n

Yellow leaves, brown edges, dark spots<\/h3>\n

Yellow, soft, and dropping leaves with the stem indicate too much water. Check the drainage and reduce watering. Dry, brown edges on otherwise green leaves suggest the air is too dry or the ficus isn't getting enough water. Increase humidity by misting.<\/p>\n

Dark, soft spots on the leaves are usually a fungal infection, almost always a consequence of constant overwatering. Remove the damaged leaves, repot into fresh substrate with better drainage, and reduce watering.<\/p>\n

Pests: aphids, red spider mite, thrips<\/h3>\n

If you notice sticky deposits on the leaves, small brown or white bumps on the underside, or a thin cobweb between the leaves, your fig tree has been infested with pests. The first thing to do is to isolate it from other plants. Wipe the leaves with a solution of water and mild soap (a teaspoon of liquid soap per litre of water) and repeat the treatment after a week. For severe infestations, use neem oil or insecticidal soap.<\/p>\n

Is a ficus poisonous?<\/h2>\n

All ficus plants contain latex, that milky white liquid which emerges when a leaf is broken or a branch is cut. The latex can cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals and is not for consumption. If you have a cat or dog that likes to chew on plants, keep the ficus out of their reach. It's not about serious poisoning, but ingesting leaves can cause irritation to the mouth and stomach in animals.<\/p>\n

The risk to people is minimal. The only precaution is to wear gloves when cutting or repotting a fig tree, especially the rubber plant which has a lot of latex, and to wash your hands afterwards.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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